Debut, a leader in biotech beauty, announced a significant advancement in the bioproduction of carmine. Traditionally sourced from the cochineal beetle, carmine is an intense red pigment. Debut’s innovation introduces a new family of enzymes crucial for this process, addressing costly inputs in biomanufacturing.
Joshua Britton, PhD, Founder and CEO of Debut, highlighted the complexity of innovating carmine. “We are proud to have discovered the missing step in creating renewable carmine,” he stated. “This advancement allows us to convert sugar into this prized molecule.”
Debut’s approach combines patented microbial production systems with cutting-edge cell-free biomanufacturing. This method improves bioproduction efficiency by 100-fold compared to previous attempts. Achieving this required the discovery of two novel enzymes, sought by scientists for over 15 years.
Historically, carmine has been essential since the time of the Mayan and Aztec empires. Producing one pound of carmine requires around 70,000 cochineal beetles. Until recently, no eco-friendly alternatives existed. Synthetic colorants have struggled to match carmine’s vibrancy and stability. Concerns about synthetic additives remain, particularly after the FDA banned synthetic Red No. 3 in January 2025 due to carcinogenic claims.
Debut’s biomanufactured carmine offers distinct advantages, including health and environmental benefits. The process ensures a supply chain unaffected by beetle migration patterns. The purity of Debut’s carminic acid exceeds 95%, far surpassing the industry average of 30%. In contrast, carminic acid from the cochineal beetle typically has a purity of only 10%.
Additionally, Debut’s bio-carmine lacks a specific protein found in beetle-derived products that can cause skin irritation. This makes it suitable for beauty and food applications. Bio-carmine also possesses antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
“While various colorants have served as replacements, nothing matches the vibrancy of carmine in lipstick,” he added. “Debut’s bio-carmine is the same ingredient found in nature.”
Debut recently completed pilot-scale bioproduction, preparing for carminic acid formulation for beauty applications. The company is also set to expand into the food and beverage market in partnership with a leading global company. Active discussions regarding this collaboration are currently underway.
