BioFibreLoop builds resilient, circular supply chains for bio-based textiles

BioFibreLoop partners discussed challenges and opportunities for the European textile industry during their second consortium meeting in June 2025, in Tampere, Helsinki. This milestone marks one year of progress in the project’s development.

BioFibreLoop started on June 1, 2024. It lasts 42 months and involves 13 partners. The total budget is €7 million, with €6.5 million funded by the EU.

A major technical achievement was shared: the German Institutes for Textile and Fibre Research (DITF) successfully spun fibres from lignin blended with cellulose. This breakthrough demonstrates lignin’s potential as a sustainable fibre source.

However, securing a reliable supply of suitable lignin remains a challenge. Unlike cellulose, lignin is not a standardized raw material. ‘Basal lignin’—extracted but unmodified lignin—varies widely in properties and quality, depending on the extraction process.

Recent market changes have made sourcing lignin more difficult. Small suppliers with high-quality lignin types have closed, and larger suppliers often do not produce the necessary grades.

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To address this, DITF conducted a comprehensive analysis of available suppliers. They tested materials using rheological analyses, focusing on fibre drawing ability and film formation.

BioFibreLoop aims for bio-based textiles to reach 20% of the industry. The volatility of lignin supply poses a real risk to this goal. Yet, new wood refineries are being built or commissioned across Europe, promising increased supply.

Thomas Stegmaier of DITF said: “Our research on lignin use in textiles, combined with market potential, will motivate establishing biorefineries for suitable lignin variants across Europe.”

Developing a stable lignin supply chain benefits more than just BioFibreLoop. Lignin suppliers can secure consistent demand by entering the large textile market.

As more lignin-based products are introduced, supported by European legislation favoring bio-based materials, resilient, circular supply networks can form. This will strengthen the European textile value chain against external disruptions.

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