Lenzing and NFW to provide biobased leather alternatives for fashion

Daniela Castillo Monagas

Lenzing has teamed up with NFW (Natural Fiber Welding) to offer TENCEL™ branded fibers as another backer option for NFW’s patented plant-based technology, MIRUM®.

MIRUM® is a categorically unique material class, perfect for luxury accessories, fashion, footwear, automotive, and home goods. TENCEL™ Lyocell and Modal fibers are derived from sustainable wood sources and produced using environmentally responsible processes. The fibers are identifiable, verifiable and traceable through Lenzing’s Fiber Identification technology which enables a physical identification of fiber origin at different stages of production. This enables full traceability of the fiber materials used during the production process, be it on a piece of fabric or finished product, like garments or footwear. 

Completely free from plastic, MIRUM® is made from natural rubber, plant and mineral pigments, plant-based oils and waxes, and an all-natural fabric backing. Each MIRUM® recipe is unique, but the commitment to using only natural ingredients is unchanging. Instead of relying on PU binders, a characteristic of most leather alternatives, MIRUM® uses natural rubber and plant oils for binding.

NFW’s approach incorporates a diversity of natural ingredients like biobased charcoal, clay, cork powder, rice hulls, coconut fibers, recycled denim or seaweed to develop color or add visual interest. At the end of its life cycle, products made with MIRUM® can be recycled into new MIRUM® or ground up and returned to the earth, while TENCEL™ fibers are compostable and biodegradable, enabling complete circularity of finished products. The collaboration creates a uniquely sustainable alternative for leather applications as both TENCEL™ fibers and MIRUM® are versatile enough to be used in multiple applications.

“At NFW, we believe that plant matter is the only material that can scale to replace plastic. Since its inception, MIRUM® has been engineered to benefit our planet. By adding fabrics made of TENCEL™ to MIRUM®, we can enhance material transparency and traceability, while guaranteeing comfort and great hand feel on the skin. We are thrilled to join hands with the TENCEL™ brand and we will continue creating greener alternatives for the fashion industry,” said Oihana Elizalde, Vice President and General Manager of MIRUM® at NFW. One of the best examples of the collaboration is the Allbirds Plant Pacer, which released last fall. The shoe’s upper is made with MIRUM® lined with TENCEL™.

“This partnership is a perfect example of how the combination of our sustainable TENCEL™ fibers and innovative materials like MIRUM® can go beyond traditional textiles. With innovation at heart, there are infinite possibilities for application of the new material. TENCEL™ fibers used as backer not only increase the level of transparency and traceability of MIRUM®, but also enhance comfort – and with a very low carbon footprint. We are confident that the versatile material will be loved by supply chain partners and brands across footwear, fashion apparel, accessories, furniture, and even automotive industries,” said Birgit Schnetzlinger, Head of Business Development Functional Wear and Footwear, Global Textiles Business at Lenzing AG.

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